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Texas Vacations Special Issue May 2001
"Sample
Fredericksburg"
Friday
Retreat
into the heart of Texas Hill Country. Halfway between Johnson City
and Fredericksburg, off U.S. 290, sits Rose Hill Manor (weekend
rates $135 to $150, toll free 1-877-767-3445). Perched atop a swell
overlooking the Pedernales River Valley, the spacious inn welcomes
you to a weekend getaway. Settle in for a quiet evening, savoring
a four-course gourmet dimmer (reservation are a must) and then
a good book from the inn's extensive collection. Or head into town
for a peek at the shops and a taste of traditional Fredericksburg
at Der Lindenbaum on East Main Street.
Saturday
Full breakfasts
of eggs scrambled with cheese and fresh herbs, French toast made
with homemade bread, seasonal fruit, juice, and coffee lure you
out of your comfy bed and help you greet the day.
"Romance"
Getting
away from it all into a private, overnight nest is always attractive,
and the Hill country has a cornucopia of options. Few in the area
have the sweep and grandeur of this remote bed-and-breakfast inn,
which serves up some exquisite food every Friday and Saturday (as
well as Valentine's Day). The house itself is set far from the
road and lords over the open field like you once imagined Tara
or Southfork did. The largest dining area has only a few tables,
and most of the seats offer ample chances for watching the sun
set. Or you can dine amid shelves of books, one of which might
contain an uplifting love lyric for the occasion.
as reported by Jean Simmons
Sharry Buckner, editor
of The Great Stays of Texas, a guide to Historic and Hospitality
Accommodations of Texas (HAT), sends words of praise about Rose
Hill Manor, a country inn near Fredericksburg. "What a place!" she
reports. "The porches are fabulous."
At Rose Hill Manor, Robert
and Patti have created a lovely, Charleston-style plantation house
on 40 rolling Hill Country acres. The elegant mansion sits on a
gentle hill, offering a spectacular view of the Pedernales River
Valley. The front porch here is the perfect place to while away
an hour or two, sipping Texas wines and enjoying the beauty of
the Hill Country. They'll pour several Texas wines, including those
of nearby Becker Vineyards, but Rose Hill is currently the tasting
facility for Alamosa Cellars in dry San Saba County, so be sure
to sample the Alamosa Sangiovese and Viogner.
If you'd like to spend
more than an afternoon, Rose Hill's accommodations are very inviting.
Each of the four guest rooms is decorated in period antiques and
features four-poster queen-sized beds. French doors in every room
open onto the verandas that surround the house. Watch a breathtaking
Hill Country sunset on the private veranda outside the Sunset Room
or enjoy a romantic getaway in the Lavender and Lace Room. Downstairs,
there's the Snug Harbor Bookstore, with floor-to-ceiling shelves
of new and used books. The innkeepers provide a delicious gourmet
breakfast on weekends and continental breakfast during the week.
The newest addition at
Rose Hill is full-service fine dining on Friday and Saturday nights.
Delightful, four-course prix fixe dinners are provided by Ernie
and Anne Briggs of Ernie's Mediterranean Grill in Fredericksburg.
There are usually two menus to choose from, with one that always
includes beef. Anne Briggs' artisan breads and elegant desserts
are a wonderful complement to the meals. Dinner reservations are
necessary, and seating is limited. Based on our experience, both
the accommodations and the food are first- rate and well worth
the trip.
"This
food is to the Manor born"
STONEWALL - To get to
Rose Hill Manor, you have to turn off U.S. 290 and leave what initially
seem to be the last vestiges of civilization behind. The narrow
road is dotted with signs telling you to watch out for livestock
in the road, but that's only stating the obvious as a herd of sheep
or several inquisitive deer will likely keep you from progressing
at too great a speed.
After twisting and turning
for a mile or more, you come to a clearing where stands a sign
announcing the inn. But you're unlikely to notice the manor itself
until you've turned up the long driveway. Once you do, you'll be
hard-pressed to keep your eyes on the road.
Everything about the
place is vast, in an unbelievable, Texas-sized way, from the sweep
of the fields that stretch before the two-story building to the
size of the veranda that practically invites you to pull up a chair
and relax.
It's satisfying to learn
that epic grandeur carries over into the prix fixe menu that chef
Ernest Briggs and his wife, Anne, the pastry chef, craft each weekend
(Dinner is served only on Friday and Saturday evenings. Reservations
are a must).
A recent bill of fare
(they're posted weekly on the manor's Web site, www.rose-hill.com)
promised Grilled Portobello Mushroom with Provolone Cheese and
Peppercorn Sauce followed by Sautéed Escargot in Tomato Basil Sauce
on Grilled Peasant Bread. The entree choice was between Grilled
Pork loin Topped With Herbed Goat Cheese and Mustard Sauce or the
ever-present Black Angus Tenderloin. For dessert there was a cobbler
with peaches and blueberries.
If my two visits are
any indication, those dishes tasted even better than they sounded
in print - admittedly somewhat of a surprise considering how wildly
inconsistent we have found Briggs' other venture, Ernie's Mediterranean
Grill in Fredericksburg.
One key to the success
of Rose Hill Manor is the freshness of the ingredients, and Briggs
has selected foods of such a fine quality that their bold, ripe
flavors can't help but come through. The size of the dining room
is also limited to about 10 tables or so, which gives you more
of a feeling that the chef is cooking directly for you.
So when you order that
beef tenderloin, you know that it will come out of the kitchen
a perfect medium rare. The meat will feel as if it is melting on
your tongue, and that intense beefiness will linger long in your
memory. It is simple in its appeal and simply perfect (No one asked
how we wanted the tenderloin prepared; the chef should know best,
after all. But if you are one of those who wants it burnt, it may
take some doing to make your preference known.)
A recent dinner began
with a tomato and chévre salad adorned with a basil vinaigrette
that tasted like pesto and blended well with the tomato's acidity.
One might have wished for, say, an heirloom tomato instead of the
Roma that was used, but at least it was juicy.
Chowder filled with chunks
of chicken, whole kernels of corn and a touch of cilantro followed.
Admittedly, we were hungry, but we would have gladly drained every
drop with the same greedy glee that succeeded the first taste.
For those not into Angus,
the second entrée choice that evening was a firm, moist slice of
Florida Key swordfish. It came with a pineapple salsa that had
a little pepper heat to cut back on the sweetness of the fruit.
The fish was the textural opposite of the silky, creamy and equally
memorable Orange Roughy With Citrus Butter Sauce that we had sampled
on an earlier visit.
For dessert, the Chocolate
Truffle Cake was as dense as it sounded, yet its mysteries were
brightened by a Bailey's Irish Crams sauce and assorted fresh berries.
Berries can add magic to most any plate; on our first visit, they
appeared alongside an exemplary flan.
The ambience of the dining
areas adds immeasurably. You sit in the romantic patio-style dining
room, lined with windows to allow you a view of the sunset, or
amid the shelves of wonderful old books that are for sale.
The owners of the inn,
Patricia and Robert Vander Lyn, double as servers. Patricia Vander
Lyn also can adeptly guide you through the three-page wine list,
which includes some of Wine Spectator's top picks as well as Texas
wines. The Carneros Creek Pinot Noir bent beautifully to match
our swordfish and beef.
Good food, good wine,
good books, even a good cup of coffee on the veranda after the
meal. It doesn't get much better.
'Halloween
Trilogy' a storytelling treat
FREDERICKSBURG
- When you approach the old Rose Hill Mansion high on a hill, with
its candlelit 'see-through' dining room that takes up half the downstairs,
you'll notice the flickering lights that float off into the woods
and disappear in the distance.
It's such
a spooky setting you'll know something special is happening there.
Follow the
winding path of torch lights, as creepy music starts to invade your
mind. Watch out for cobwebs, hooting owls and bodies hanging in the
trees. Grab your seats around the roaring campfire and don't be surprised
to see a dismembered arm reaching out from under the fire for anyone
who comes too close. Settle in, wave at the young witch for a bottle
of something cold and get set for a night of fine, spine-tingling
entertainment.
Texas Actors
Theatre has assembled a cast of six talented actors from around the
country and London, too. Doug Burns, Christopher Marlow, Meredith
Hale Baker, Christopher Rothwell, Timothy J. Verret and Bonni Chambers
are the excellent players who make up this great show.
And the material
is just right. What could be better for Halloween than Rudyard Kipling's
'Mark of the Beast,' Oscar Wilde's "The Canterville Ghost' and
Edgar Allan Poe's 'The Cask of Amontillado"'
The players
are seated in a line, lit by torch light, right in front of the audience,
completing the ghostly circle around the roaring fire. The performance
is something like a cross between viewing a radio show (complete
with serious sound effects) and seeing a 'reading,' where the performers
act out their parts.
Separate players
star in each one of the three pieces, with their capable fellow actors
supplying a lot of eerie sound effects, etc. Listen for the cement
spatula scraping the bricks as the great Venetian house of Montresor
(Chris Marlow) seals the dastardly Signor Fortunato (Timothy J. Verret)
into a vault.
Mix all this
with crickets, recorded hoots, howls, blood curdling scrams and an
unplanned-for cow that moos now and then in the distance - and the
stage is set for Edgar Allan Poe, Rudyard Kipling and Oscar Wilde.
Day
Trips
Rose Hill
Manor outside of Stonewall looks like an old Southern plantation
mansion transported to the rugged hills west of Johnson City and
Blanco. On a clear day, the view from the upper balcony of the two-story,
white building stretches across the Pedernales River Valley where
Lyndon Johnson wandered as a boy.
More than
just a country inn, Rose Hill Manor, with half a dozen well-appointed
rooms, combines beer and wine sales, a well-stocked bookstore, and
on Friday and Saturday nights, a four course dinner to make for a
unique Hill Country destination. "It might look like we're in
competition with 300 other bed and breakfast inns in Central Texas,
but we're not, " says Robert Vander Lyn, the inn's owner. "Unless
we're missing something, we're the only one offering the same amenities.
It's a lot of extra work, but it's worth it to put us in another
category."
The four upstairs
bedrooms and the two separate cottages offer spacious accommodation
with privacy and comfort. Most rooms have separate reading areas
filled with light from long rows of windows. From up above, a cupola
pours natural lighting down into the center of the house. "one
of our goals is to take people from the cities and give them a country
home, if only for a weekend," Vander Lyn says.
For Texans
or out-of-staters, Rose Hill can offer a perfect country refuge.
With a strong library of reading material available, much of it about
Central Texas and the Hill Country, a guest might curl up on a big
easy chair and leisurely pass the weekend. Or just a short, scenic
drive from the estate are Fredericksburg, several wineries, Enchanted
Rock State Park, and the popular Luckenbach.
Robert Vander
Lyn and his wife Patricia started working on the house 10 years ago
this September. They have been welcoming guests to their country
getaway for the past two and a half years, "in the beginning
we lived out here in a tent without a road or utilities," he
says. Then they spent a little more than seven years living in the
house while they completed the final touches.
When the couple
got married, they decided that they didn't want to raise their children
in Houston. They set off across the country for eight months looking
for the American dream and a place to hang their hats. After visiting
38 states and Canada they returned to the Texas Hill Country. One
day, while driving down Upper Albert Road, they came across the 40
acres for sale and saw the beauty and potential of the cedar-covered
hill.
They had considered
buying an old house and fixing it up, but it seemed like more work
than starting from scratch. Vander Lyn had always had an interest
in architecture even though he is the first to admit that he wasn't
mechanically inclined. During their travels around the country, he
had made notes of a dozen or so things that he felt made the old
houses they visited special. Their house had to have things like
a view, trees shading a big yard, high ceilings, lot of windows,
and big porches.
"Our
goal was to build a brand-new house that looked old," Vander
Lyn says. He soon became disenchanted with using recycled building
materials because of the expense and availability of certain items. "You
could find two matching doors, but not four," he says.
Serving as
designer and general contractor, the former Houston attorney learned
the construction trade from the ground up. "I wasn't smart enough
to know that you can't do it the old way anymore," he says, "but
it's just a big box."
"Things
got progressively easier," Vander Lyn says with a laugh. Now
things like six hours of mowing with a tractor puts a more sizeable
dent in the field than six hours of walking behind a push mower.
A couple of
years ago the Vander Lyns built a two-story cottage behind the grand
building for their home. "After building this house, building
a 1,500-square-foot cottage was nothing," he says.
Business has
steadily increased since a group of employees and guest from nearby
Becker Vineyards were the inn's first guests. "The Internet
gives a place like this a tremendous running start," Vander
Lyn says, "but word-of-mouth referrals are just awesome." Folks
from the Waco post office came for a vacation after they had seen
a post card of the house that someone had mailed. The Federal Express
and UPS delivery men have returned as guests after making deliveries.
After enclosing
the downstairs side porches the Vander Lyns added gourmet meals on
Friday and Saturday nights. Being so far out of town, the guest appreciate
a good meal served at the inn, he says. The fabulous meals are prepared
by chef Ernie Briggs and his pastry chef wife Annie. The Briggses
also own Ernie's Mediterranean Grill in Fredericksburg. The dinning
area can easily accommodate 26 diners and more seating can often
be arranged.
Mid-September
to Christmas is a great time of year to visit the Hill Country, Vander
Lyn says. If nothing else, after Thanksgiving drive down the Vander
Lyn's road just to see the Christmas decoration that he spends five
or six weeks every year putting up.
To get to
Rose Hill Manor take U.S. 290 West of Stonewall, turn right on Upper
Albert Road and follow the winding country road to 2614 Upper Albert.
Rates range from $135 to $150 per night for weekends with a two-night
minimum most weekends. Weekday rates drop to an affordable $99 per
night and also includes a breakfast.
The
weekend dinners are $39.96 and are open to overnight guests and
non-guests. Reservations are
required and the next week's menu is posted on the inn's Web site.
For more information, call Rose Hill Man or at 877-767-2445 or www.rose-hill.com.
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